There is not one right way to ride a wave. – Jamie O’Brien
True story, Jamie.
Ultimately there are as many possibilites to surf a wave as you may imagine.
Everybody has their own way of dealing with a situation. Riding a wave starts with perception. Who might know if the shape of a wave and its movement was equal to your eyes and mine?
We’re all unique.
Surfing is holistic. It requires both mental and physical strength as well as a lot of body control.
The fact that you theoretically know how to ride it, is no guarantee for a successful implementation. Surfing requires years of training.
My surf adventure started four years ago. Since then I have this sensation that my life was devided in two chapters: the time before I began to surf and the time after it.
I’ve definitely found my passion.
From that time on I don’t have any more general questions in life. I don’t need to ask why I was born or find an answer to the question what I might do in five years from now.
My overall answer is the Ocean.
Which one is yours?